Day 24: Rub' al Khali

Arabic for the empty quarter, the Rub' al Khali is the designation given to the world's largest sand desert occupying a quarter of the Arabian peninsula. For a cyclist, the vast expanse of the Plains - though hardly a desert - sometimes feels like the empty quarter. Today ride - 80 miles from Baker, MT to Miles City, MT - presented the longest single stretch in journey without any services: no restaurants, coffee shops, gas stations or bathrooms. Fortunately, a tailwind and cool conditions meant an easy ride. In truth, an outdoorsman would hardly consider this a wilderness area, but for city dweller who has spent the last eight years in the most densely populated area in the US, eastern Montana qualifies.

No services sign in Baker, MT

While empty quarter might be an exaggerated description of the Plains, it would be an apt description for the dining options in this area. Before arriving in Miles City, in the previous 300 miles eastward, both fine dining and fast food have been nearly nonexistent. You might think you could find a McDonald's anywhere - not in this area of Plains. 

Instead, the only places to eat in these small towns look more like a dusty catering hall or the local VFW - with seemingly surplus chairs and tables, few windows, and the strong smell of smoke. Steak or burgers constitute the preponderance of menu options, with variations on the potato as side dish (or main course for vegetarians). Foodies might find this region a bit problematic. Miles City provides variations on this theme, but drinks at the Montana Bar offer an excellent opportunity for cowboy watching.

After 375+ miles in four days and 660+ miles since leaving Minneapolis last Friday, I am taking another rest day tomorrow to recuperate before the push to Billings. I also say goodbye to Steve and Lauren who have savored (endured?) the Plains with me for the last 3 days. I cannot thank them enough for making the trek out here to support me. Once I get their pictures, I'll update the blog with a picture of the three of us.

STAGE SUMMARY:

Starting Point - Baker, MT

Ending Point - Miles City, MT
Distance - 79.5 miles
Cumulative Distance - 2075.0 miles
Vertical Elevation - 4303 feet

Counties - Fallon, Custer, MT

Wind - variable tailwind