After crossing the Missouri and on my last day in South Dakota, both the land and the people take on a more distinct frontier quality: expansive grasslands dotted with cattle instead of corn and soybean fields; dusty small towns with general stores and saloons instead of coffee shops and antique stores. A strong tailwind and a sag wagon for my gear allowed me to ride further than I intended - 123 miles (my longest ever ride). But winds in the Plains are capricious. Today's generous tailwind is forecast to become tomorrow's stiff headwind.
My friends, Steve Winn and Lauren Valacer, flew all the way from New York into Bismarck, ND and met me on the road to provide some company as I make my way through this particularly desolate stretch of my route.
They met me in McLaughlin, SD - the largest town in the Standing Rock Indian Reservation where I spent most of today's ride. At the Prairie Dog Cafe on a rundown but surprisingly active main street, I entered into conversation with a Lakota man. He told me about his family ties to this place stretching back to the Plains Wars of the 1870s and the subjugation of the Sioux onto reservations. This reservation holds the burial place of Sitting Bull, not far off US-12 northwest of Mobridge.
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| Missouri River/Lake Oahe crossing at Mobridge, SD |
The distances between towns and the services available quickly dwindle west of the river. Even a major thoroughfare like US-12 became quiet for extended periods today leaving only the sound of the wind and my tires rolling on the road. A relatively wet and cool spring has left the grasslands unusually verdant, more akin to an Irish countryside. The effect of a strong wind on these immense grasslands is oddly entrancing - a sight that can I think best be appreciated on a bike. If any road cyclist wants to enjoy there easiest century ride cruising at 25 mph, they should come out to the Dakotas and ride in whichever direction the wind is blowing.
Starting Point - Mobridge, SD
Ending Point - Hettinger, NDDistance - 123.0 miles
Cumulative Distance - 1909.4 miles
Vertical Elevation - 5013 feet
Counties - Walworth, Corson, Perkins, SD; Adams, ND
Wind - strong tailwind
So glad that Lauren and Steve are able to share some of this experience with you. Please post pictures! As a young child Lauren always wanted to visit the grave of Sitting Bull.
ReplyDeleteIt's amazing that you are 1900 miles into your trip. Believe me, I've enjoyed following you every step of the way. Continue posting and be safe.
By the way,I contacted the Pilot News in Plymouth, Indiana. They did, indeed write an article about your travels. In fact,it was on the front page! I requested they send me a copy. We'll see.