Day 31: Down the Blackfoot

One of the best parts of crossing the continental divide is getting to ride downhill the next day. Following the Blackfoot River, I winded my way through the mountains for 80 miles to my last stop in the Treasure State on the last day in June.

On the road to Missoula, MT

Riding a state highway through the mountains, the solitude and cool temperatures of an early morning start gave way to a more taxing conditions in early afternoon as temperatures rose and traffic turned heavy. The current heat wave gripping the West is breaking records here as well with heat advisories posted for today and tomorrow. I occasionally thought about jumping into the Blackfoot River to cool off. A shallow mountain stream, its clear waters looked inviting, though the current might have been a bit swift. I observed many families enjoying whitewater rafting on the river as I approached Missoula.

Clear waters of the Blackfoot River

As the headquarters of the Adventure Cycling Association, Missoula is no stranger to long-distance cyclists. On my off day tomorrow, I will add my name to the ACA log of cross-country cyclists. At a gas station, I met three other cyclists on their way to Missoula. The cyclists, carrying considerably more gear than me and looking a bit haggard, had spent the previous two weeks making their way from Jasper, Canada south along the continental divide. Two of the cyclists had also traveled cross country a couple years back along the TransAmerica Trail, and we exchanged stories from the road: the people, the routes, the wind. They congratulated me on making good time from New York and shared some advice about the homestretch to the Pacific.

Dusk or dawn outside Lincoln, MT?

For those of you who find yourself somewhere between Missoula and Great Falls on MT Hwy 200, the colorfully named Stray Bullet Cafe in Ovando, MT offers a nice stop for breakfast or lunch. Also, hop into the family-owned Lost Woodsman Restaurant in Lincoln, MT for an excellent coffee or quick snack.

STAGE SUMMARY:

Starting Point - Lincoln, MT

Ending Point - Missoula, MT
Distance - 79.6 miles
Cumulative Distance - 2611.4 miles
Vertical Elevation - 2714 feet

Counties - Lewis and Clark, Powell, Missoula, MT

Wind - light headwind

Day 30: Where the Rivers Flow West

After 30 days on the road, I crossed the continental divide today - from here on, the rivers flow west towards the Pacific Ocean. Climbing from Helena, MT at 4000 feet, I reached the continental divide in the Helena National Forest at 6100 feet - the highest point I reach on this journey. Like yesterday, the wind shifted aimlessly but with high temperatures set for the afternoon, I made an early start out of Helena.

A photo at Flesher Pass

As I cycled through the outskirts of Helena in the valley, Gadsden flags and Ron Paul signs testified to the fiercely independent political leanings of the area. Mobile homes scattered in the foothills and ranchlands gave way to forest as I began a gentle climb toward the pass. The hardest part of the climb is a three mile stretch of switchbacks along the forested mountain side where the road rises 1700 feet. The price for stellar views is sweat in the eyes and slow speeds as I spun the crank in its lowest gear. As I approached the summit, a deer stared at me quizzically (mocking me?), finally hopping up the mountain side as I passed. I lingered for some time at the divide enjoying the views and flagging down a passing car to get my picture taken.

View east near the top of Flesher Pass

The town of Lincoln, MT has a dubious claim to fame: hometown of the Unabomber, Ted Kaczynski. Now detained at a federal prison in Florence, CO, Kaczynski moved to a small cabin outside of Lincoln honing his survival skills in the wilderness and sending mail bombs over a nearly 20 year period.

Continental Divide Hiking Trail

A small town set in the forest, Lincoln is a fairly busy in the summer - I had some difficulty finding an available motel. Boating, hiking, and fishing are the local attractions, and no one was too surprised to see a cyclist passing through. In fact, a mountain bike race - the Tour Divide - which follows the continental divide in the US passed through Lincoln a week ago. One day of climbing in the divide was good for me.

STAGE SUMMARY:

Starting Point - Helena, MT

Ending Point - Lincoln, MT
Distance - 56.6 miles
Cumulative Distance - 2531.8 miles
Vertical Elevation - 3291 feet

Counties - Lewis and Clark, MT

Wind - light tailwind

Day 29: End of Louisiana

Back on the road after a day off in Bozeman, my route turned north towards the Montana state capital. Calm winds made for a quicker ride, but temperatures in the 90s made riding in the afternoon a bit uncomfortable. Similar conditions should prevail tomorrow when I climb my second mountain pass and cross the continental divide.

Though I have now traveled some 2500 miles from New York, I am still within the historical boundaries of the US as it existed since 1803. Through the Plains and Rockies, this land was all part of the Louisiana Purchase. Though Jefferson was only interested in securing the port of New Orleans, France, needing funding for its European wars, sold the US the territory west of the Mississippi extending all the way to the continental divide.

The landmarks along today's ride make reference to that era of American history. At Three Forks, MT, I crossed just south of the headwaters of the Missouri River where three rivers - the Jefferson, Madison, and Gallatin - come together to form the mighty Missouri. Lewis and Clark named these rivers in honor of the president and his cabinet. Even in one day ride, the landscape changes dramatically from marshy wetlands near the headwaters to sandy grasslands to pine forests as I entered Helena.

View south from Three Forks, MT

My day off in Bozeman yesterday was spent enjoying the culinary experience of the downtown. Check out the salad options at the John Bozeman Bistro for lunch, grab a wood-fired pizza at Blackbird Kitchen, and keep room for dessert at the Chocolate Moose. For the cross-country cyclist, you stock up when you can - lunch today was taken sitting on the curb at a gas station in Townsend, MT.

STAGE SUMMARY:

Starting Point - Bozeman, MT

Ending Point - Helena, MT
Distance - 99.3 miles
Cumulative Distance - 2475.2 miles
Vertical Elevation - 2116 feet

Counties - Gallatin, Broadwater, Jefferson, Lewis and Clark, MT

Wind - light cross/headwind

Day 28: Mile High

I did not feel this tired after riding twice as far one week ago in the Dakotas. My ride might have been only 63 miles, but with a vicious headwind and a 13 mile climb up Bozeman Pass, it was tough going. I was warned in the previous days that the winds coming off the eastern slope of the Rockies would be difficult and so it proved.

Crazy Mountains seen from the south

Leaving Big Timber this morning, I closed in on the mountain ranges that had seemed so distant yesterday. Here in Montana, the Rockies do not form a single solid north-south line like the Front Range in Colorado - rather the highest peaks are broken into compact ranges with the main highways weaving through these ranges. I passed south of the Crazy Mountains and north of the Absaroka Range to Livingston, MT at the start of the Bozeman Pass.

Eastern approach of the Bozeman Pass

Separating the Yellowstone and Missouri watersheds, Bozeman Pass sits a mile high some 1500 feet above Livingston. The climb is a fairly gentle one since it is spread over 13 miles, but with my bike weighed down by my gear and the fierce headwind, it nevertheless took some effort. The temperature gradually dropped as I climbed with a rainstorm materializing rather suddenly. The one positive about climbing a pass is the ride down, which offered stunning views of the forested slopes of the Gallatin and Bridger Ranges. I would have taken a picture had I not been stuck on a fairly busy stretch of I-90 with a somewhat narrow shoulder.

Bozeman offered the most inviting downtown since leaving the Twin Cities some 900 miles east. Tourism, the state university, and a strong farm economy have made this town into something of a boomtown with numerous cafes, restaurants, specialty stores. For dinner, I overate at Over the Tapas; the food and local brews were definitely worth it as were several friendly locals who took an interest in my travels. I take a day off tomorrow to further explore this interesting town.

STAGE SUMMARY:

Starting Point - Big Timber, MT

Ending Point - Bozeman, MT
Distance - 62.6 miles
Cumulative Distance - 2375.9 miles
Vertical Elevation - 2746 feet

Counties - Sweet Grass, Park, Gallatin, MT

Wind - strong headwind

Day 27: In the Shadow of the Rockies

My march across Montana continues apace even though the wind conspired to make today's trip a fairly grueling endeavor. Now due north of Yellowstone National Park and due south of the Alberta-Saskatchewan border, I am at the doorstep of the first of three mountain passes that I am scheduled to cross in the next week. Tomorrow comes Bozeman Pass at 5700 feet separating the Bridger and Gallatin Ranges in the Rockies.

Snowcapped Beartooth Range in the distance

As I left the Billings area this morning, I sighted the Rockies for the first time on journey - the peaks of the Beartooth Range off to the southwest with snow visible at elevation in jarring contrast with the 85 degree temperatures felt in the valley. With hills and buttes to either side, I made my way up the Yellowstone River gradually ascending some 1000 feet over the day. By staying close to the river, the upward gradient was hardly noticeable, but the fierce headwind made it feel like I was climbing for 90 miles anyways.

My view on the I-90

My ride today also featured another foray onto the interstate. The wide shoulder on I-90 ensured no difficulties though traffic volumes were definitely heavier than what I encountered on my first interstate ride a couple days back. To my disappointment, my presence did not lead to any horn honking, but I do wonder what drivers think when they pass by a cyclist on the interstate - it must be somewhat unexpected.

While the wind and heat have been less cooperative in Montana than the Dakotas, the dining options are much improved. Billings has a small but eclectic downtown strip where I watched the decisive game of the Stanley Cup Finals at the Montana Brewing Company. A lunchtime salad today in Columbus, MT at 307 Bar & Grill was a pleasant surprise, and dinner at the historic Grand Hotel in Big Timber, MT was excellent. Stop by if you're traveling cross-country via I-90.

STAGE SUMMARY:

Starting Point - Billings, MT

Ending Point - Big Timber, MT
Distance - 87.6 miles
Cumulative Distance - 2313.3 miles
Vertical Elevation - 2344 feet

Counties - Yellowstone, Stillwater, Sweet Grass, MT

Wind - strong headwind

Day 26: Pompey's Pillar

A long ride in 90 degree heat brought me into Montana's largest city - Billings - and into the final third of my cross-country journey. Riding in the floodplain of the Yellowstone River to avoid the hills, net elevation increased gradually and steadily to from 2200 feet to 3000 feet above sea level. After some 800 miles from Minneapolis, I have now crossed the Great Plains and tomorrow should bring me within sight of the Rockies.

Pompey's Pillar National Monument

Just outside of Billings on the banks of the Yellowstone lies Pompey's Pillar - a sandstone outcropping and prominent landmark for generations of settlers and Indians traversing the Plains. When William Clark passed through in 1806, he named the tower from the youngest member of the expedition - the child of Sacajawea - Jean Baptiste - born two winters earlier. Nicknamed Pomp and later raised and educated by Clark, Jean Baptiste survived the expedition's toughest days bordering on starvation as they ascended the Bitterroot Mountains in 1805 and making it all the way to the Pacific and back. The presence of a child and a woman on the expedition signaled the peaceful intentions of the Corps of Discovery to the Native American tribes they encountered through the West.

Captain William Clark's signature

On Pompey's Pillar lies the only physical evidence of left by the Corps of Discovery - William Clark's name etched into the side of the stone and clearly visible today. In the coming decades, settlers heading westward added their names to the stone. This early version of graffiti was designated a national monument in 2001, preventing me from adding my name to this landmark. Though this area of the country is expansive and picturesque, it bears little resemblance to the region that the Lewis and Clark expedition encountered 200 years ago. Once teeming with bison and grizzly bears, it is now home to cattle ranches and beet farms.

STAGE SUMMARY:

Starting Point - Forsyth, MT

Ending Point - Billings, MT
Distance - 106.0 miles
Cumulative Distance - 2225.7 miles
Vertical Elevation - 2248 feet

Counties - Rosebud, Treasure, Yellowstone, MT

Wind - variable crosswind

Day 25: Tough Men of Montana

With limited motel options between Miles City, MT to Billings, MT, I enjoyed a short 45 mile ride this morning to Forsyth, MT on the banks of the Yellowstone River. The price will be a longer 106 mile ride tomorrow to Billings. In the coming days, I will follow the route taken by Captain William Clark in 1806 along the Yellowstone River as the Corps of Discovery made its way back home from the Pacific.

Today, for the first time on my journey, I rode on the interstate. Unlike states east of the Mississippi, western states permit cyclists to use the interstate highway system, though many travelers are not aware of that. While the prospect of cycling on the interstate seemed faintly ridiculous at first, after spending most of journey on highways with fast-moving traffic, this stretch of interstate riding was fairly pleasant. An eight foot shoulder with little debris afforded me plenty of room with traffic volumes similar to what I encountered in the Dakotas. However, cycling on the interstate on a cloudless day on the bluffs overlooking the Yellowstone, one does feel very small and insignificant in this part of the country.

Yellowstone River through the cottonwoods

My day off yesterday in Miles City, MT gave me a chance to get my bike checked out at the local shop. Aside from a minor adjustment to the spoke tension, everything checked out. The owner, a rough and tumble looking fellow who sees his fair share of cross-country cyclists, generously gave my bike a quick once over at no charge. He also shared stories of some of the cyclists who have come through: a 95 year old woman riding cross country who only started cycling at age 90; a young man on a solo ride calling from Sidney, MT (over 130 miles away) who rode in on a broken rear axle with only the skewer holding the wheel together. When they took out the skewer, all the bearings fell out, his wheel rendered useless

However, when conversation turned away from cycling to where I am from and what I do, the owner launched into a stemwinder on the evils of Michael Bloomberg and the crooks at the Federal Reserve. The ranting was real tin foil hat stuff punctuated with plenty of references to "nitwits" in Washington wanting to take away their guns and loose talk of rebellion. Though I hinted that I thought Bloomberg and the Fed might not be quite as nefarious as advertised, when another hard man from town in boots, jeans and cowboy hat entered and started nodding gravely, I decided discretion was the better part of valor and took my leave. After all that, I got my first flat tire headed back to my motel - I decided just to fix it on my own.

STAGE SUMMARY:

Starting Point - Miles City, MT

Ending Point - Forsyth, MT
Distance - 44.7 miles
Cumulative Distance - 2119.7 miles
Vertical Elevation - 2146 feet

Counties - Custer, Rosebud, MT

Wind - light headwind

Day 24: Rub' al Khali

Arabic for the empty quarter, the Rub' al Khali is the designation given to the world's largest sand desert occupying a quarter of the Arabian peninsula. For a cyclist, the vast expanse of the Plains - though hardly a desert - sometimes feels like the empty quarter. Today ride - 80 miles from Baker, MT to Miles City, MT - presented the longest single stretch in journey without any services: no restaurants, coffee shops, gas stations or bathrooms. Fortunately, a tailwind and cool conditions meant an easy ride. In truth, an outdoorsman would hardly consider this a wilderness area, but for city dweller who has spent the last eight years in the most densely populated area in the US, eastern Montana qualifies.

No services sign in Baker, MT

While empty quarter might be an exaggerated description of the Plains, it would be an apt description for the dining options in this area. Before arriving in Miles City, in the previous 300 miles eastward, both fine dining and fast food have been nearly nonexistent. You might think you could find a McDonald's anywhere - not in this area of Plains. 

Instead, the only places to eat in these small towns look more like a dusty catering hall or the local VFW - with seemingly surplus chairs and tables, few windows, and the strong smell of smoke. Steak or burgers constitute the preponderance of menu options, with variations on the potato as side dish (or main course for vegetarians). Foodies might find this region a bit problematic. Miles City provides variations on this theme, but drinks at the Montana Bar offer an excellent opportunity for cowboy watching.

After 375+ miles in four days and 660+ miles since leaving Minneapolis last Friday, I am taking another rest day tomorrow to recuperate before the push to Billings. I also say goodbye to Steve and Lauren who have savored (endured?) the Plains with me for the last 3 days. I cannot thank them enough for making the trek out here to support me. Once I get their pictures, I'll update the blog with a picture of the three of us.

STAGE SUMMARY:

Starting Point - Baker, MT

Ending Point - Miles City, MT
Distance - 79.5 miles
Cumulative Distance - 2075.0 miles
Vertical Elevation - 4303 feet

Counties - Fallon, Custer, MT

Wind - variable tailwind

Day 23: The Badlands

For 60 some miles of today's ride, the landscape appeared unchanged from the previous several days. Then, as I came over a hill, it all changed quite unexpectedly as the grasslands gave way to the badlands - places were wind and water have worn away the sandy soil to carve out curious looking buttes and hills out of the prairie.

North Dakota badlands

In the middle of North Dakota badlands, I stumbled upon the crumbling town of Marmarth, ND. Once a bustling stop on Milwaukee Road (a old time passenger railroad line along which US-12 is built), the town's main street is mostly boarded up and many of the homes abandoned. However, a solitary restaurant and bar continues to serve both locals and the occasional fossil hunter passing through: Pastime Club and Steakhouse. Like other stops in recent days, I was greeted with surprised and dumbfounded looks - a solo cyclist crossing the windswept Plains. Strangers are eager to ask about the trip and its logistics. I am beginning to see that the US-12 route I have taken is a somewhat rare one for cross-country cyclists.

Abandoned theater on the main street in Marmarth, ND

With dining options being highly limited in this part of the country, my friends Steve and Lauren (who spent their day in Theodore Roosevelt National Park) and I returned to Marmarth for dinner at Pastime. Despite furnishings resembling what one might find at a VFW hall, we enjoyed a decent meal in the sparsely populated restaurant. With few tables to attend, our gregarious waitress sat down with us and queried me extensively about my bike trip flabbergasted by the undertaking.

Despite the problematic headwind, I left behind the Dakotas today and entered the largest state on my cross-country ride: Montana. The next 10 days or so will be spent traversing Big Sky country including the remaining stretches of the Plains and the Rockies.

STAGE SUMMARY:

Starting Point - Hettinger, ND

Ending Point - Baker, MT
Distance - 86.1 miles
Cumulative Distance - 1995.5 miles
Vertical Elevation - 2236 feet

Counties - Adams, Bowman, Slope, ND; Fallon, MT

Wind - moderate headwind

Day 22: West River

After crossing the Missouri and on my last day in South Dakota, both the land and the people take on a more distinct frontier quality: expansive grasslands dotted with cattle instead of corn and soybean fields; dusty small towns with general stores and saloons instead of coffee shops and antique stores. A strong tailwind and a sag wagon for my gear allowed me to ride further than I intended - 123 miles (my longest ever ride). But winds in the Plains are capricious. Today's generous tailwind is forecast to become tomorrow's stiff headwind.

My friends, Steve Winn and Lauren Valacer, flew all the way from New York into Bismarck, ND and met me on the road to provide some company as I make my way through this particularly desolate stretch of my route. 

They met me in McLaughlin, SD - the largest town in the Standing Rock Indian Reservation where I spent most of today's ride.  At the Prairie Dog Cafe on a rundown but surprisingly active main street, I entered into conversation with a Lakota man. He told me about his family ties to this place stretching back to the Plains Wars of the 1870s and the subjugation of the Sioux onto reservations. This reservation holds the burial place of Sitting Bull, not far off US-12 northwest of Mobridge.

Missouri River/Lake Oahe crossing at Mobridge, SD

The distances between towns and the services available quickly dwindle west of the river. Even a major thoroughfare like US-12 became quiet for extended periods today leaving only the sound of the wind and my tires rolling on the road. A relatively wet and cool spring has left the grasslands unusually verdant, more akin to an Irish countryside. The effect of a strong wind on these immense grasslands is oddly entrancing - a sight that can I think best be appreciated on a bike. If any road cyclist wants to enjoy there easiest century ride cruising at 25 mph, they should come out to the Dakotas and ride in whichever direction the wind is blowing.

STAGE SUMMARY:

Starting Point - Mobridge, SD

Ending Point - Hettinger, ND
Distance - 123.0 miles
Cumulative Distance - 1909.4 miles
Vertical Elevation - 5013 feet

Counties - Walworth, Corson, Perkins, SD; Adams, ND

Wind - strong tailwind

Day 21: Gateway to the West

After 1800 miles, I am now on the banks of the Missouri River - at the doorstep to the West. Here my route intersects with the Lewis and Clark trail for the first time. My 100 mile ride today took me through flat and expansive plains populated with either corn or cattle. A light tailwind today made for a far more pleasant ride than the grueling slog two days earlier.

Signpost outside Mobridge, SD for the Lewis and Clark Trail

After an early start this morning, I stopped for a mid-morning snack of eggs and hash brown (some might label this breakfast) at the Lammon Restaurant in Ipswich, SD. The proprietor, who was quite shocked that someone might ride a bike from New York to South Dakota, asked to take a picture and generously provided my meal free of charge. If you click the link and go to their Facebook page, you will see that picture of yours truly. Needless to say, the food and hospitality are well worth a visit if you find yourself on that stretch of US-12.

The folks at Lammon's also informed me that I was cycling on a historic automobile route - the Yellowstone Trail. Much like the Lincoln Highway, this transcontinental route was conceived and built by private businessmen, and the Yellowstone Trail had its roots in Ipswich, SD as local businessman Joseph Parmley initially sought to improve the roadway from Aberdeen to Ipswich before undertaking a more ambitious project.

Railroads shipping corn and wheat to market

The interest of South Dakotans in my bike trip continued into the afternoon when I stopped at Mr. Bob's - a drive-in restaurant in Selby, SD. Taking a break in the shade, I struck up a conversation with a retired couple and a gentleman - Uncle Mel - who gives tours of the state capitol in Pierre, SD. The retired couple had moved from California to South Dakota for retirement - an unorthodox choice given the severe winters, but they relished the peace and quiet of small town life.

Despite the booming farm economy, my interlocutors confirmed that these small towns continue to decline in population as young people leave and farms are increasingly consolidated and operated by absentee owners. Below a critical threshold, the absence of basic services renders life in the towns untenable. Further south in poorer regions in western Nebraska and Kansas, this process has returned many of these towns to the prairies.

STAGE SUMMARY:

Starting Point - Aberdeen, SD

Ending Point - Mobridge, SD
Distance - 100.5 miles
Cumulative Distance - 1786.4 miles
Vertical Elevation - 2218 feet

Counties - Brown, Edmunds, Walworth, SD

Wind - variable tailwind

Day 20: The Grid

The directions today made it pretty hard to get lost - turn right on US Highway 12 and continue for about 100 miles to Aberdeen, SD. Unfortunately, the directions were the only thing simple about today's ride. With a stiff headwind, plenty of road construction, and periods of heat interrupted by the occasional thunderstorm, I inched my way across the Great Plains at a painfully slow pace of 11 mph. I am moving up my rest day to hopefully take advantage of more favorable winds forecast for Tuesday and Wednesday.

Traveling in South Dakota makes you keenly aware of the grid that divides up rural lands across most of the northern US. Section markers and gravel cross streets with drab names like 394th Avenue ticked by mile by mile as I rode westward on the highway. A legacy of the Land Ordinance of 1785 and subsequent laws organizing the disposal of public lands, settlers were offered a 1 mile square box of land - a section within a 6 mile x 6 mile township organized on a rectangular grid. Much of that grid survives today (just look out your window on your next flight).

In addition to organizing the settlement of the Old Northwest and the Great Plains, the Land Ordinance established enduring American institutions of public education and local government. When originally debating how to settle land outside the thirteen colonies, Congress faced a choice between adopting the land settlement practices of New England or the South and chose the former.

One section within each township was reserved for schooling creating an expectation for public education provided by the township. The unique decentralized system of education in the US follows in no small measure from this practice. Similarly, several sections within each township were reserved to the local government; this land provided an important source of revenues for the township as public sections were parceled off to raise funds to enhance township services. Moreover, the administration of these communal sections encouraged active participation by the citizens in local government. Something to consider as I moved (slowly) from section to section, township to township further west.

STAGE SUMMARY:

Starting Point - Milbank, SD

Ending Point - Aberdeen, SD
Distance - 95.4 miles
Cumulative Distance - 1685.9 miles
Vertical Elevation - 2284 feet

Counties - Grant, Roberts, Day, Brown, SD

Wind - strong headwind

Day 19: Friendly Faces

Some familiar faces made today's ride the best so far on my trip. My dear friends, Gabriel and Stacey Gillett made the trip from New York to get a taste of my life on the road by bicycle. Flying from New York to Minneapolis on Friday and then driving some 150 miles out to South Dakota, they met me for lunch at Peg's Place - a typical if somewhat weathered diner in the small town of Appleton, MN. Gabi and I grew up in Minnesota and have known each other since junior high, and I have known Stacey, his better half, for the better part of a decade. I think they particularly enjoyed honking at me as they drove past on the highway.

Handing off my gear to lighten the load in the headwind, I crossed the Minnesota-South Dakota border just south of Big Stone Lake. During my days off in Minneapolis, another friend from junior high, Peter Euphosin, mentioned that yet another Hopkins High School alumni, Phil Stern, works in South Dakota during the summers. Figuring that the odds of finding one person in South Dakota would be minimal, I did not ask where exactly he might be. But Peter mentioned that he works at a fireworks store across the border.

Low and behold, as I crossed the border I immediately saw signs for fireworks shops in the dusty hamlet of Big Stone City, SD. With time to kill, I decided to hop into one of these stores and ask if Phil works there. The first person I met when I walked in was Phil who was, needless to say, a bit surprised to see me come through the doors.

Action shot

That evening, Gabi, Stacey and I drove back to the border and joined Phil for dinner in Ortonville, MN on the shores of Big Stone Lake. It was a reunion of sorts - Gabi and Phil actually went to elementary school together and had not seen each other since high school graduation in 2001. We enjoyed a decent meal and an excellent lakeside view on the patio of the Lakewood Supper Club. My guests also managed to convince the somewhat spacey waitress that it was my birthday - dessert was on the house.

Motley crew in Ortonville, MN

We ended the evening by heading back to Ken's Fireworks owned by Phil's uncle and carefully staffed by Phil during the busy weeks before July 4th. Stacey managed to dissuade Gabi from our tentative plans to set off fireworks at the motel, but he did leave with a bag full of fireworks to bring back to the Twin Cities for Father's Day. No word yet as to how that went. It all made for an excellent evening at the halfway mark on my cross-country ride.

STAGE SUMMARY:

Starting Point - Willmar, MN

Ending Point - Milbank, SD
Distance - 83.3 miles
Cumulative Distance - 1590.5 miles
Vertical Elevation - 1062 feet

Counties - Kandiyohi, Swift, Big Stone, MN; Grant, SD

Wind - moderate head/crosswind

Day 18: Little Mogadishu

I am back on the road after an extended sojourn at home in the Twin Cities. From here westward, population thins out, distances grow between services, and route options become more limited. However, none of these issues were immediately apparent on today's ride as I made my way out of the western suburbs of Minneapolis. A stiff tailwind pushed me along at a quick clip through rolling farmlands and up a gentle incline; an imperceptible increase in elevation will feature on most of the rides for the next week as I make my way through the Great Plains towards the Rockies.

Grain elevator outside Kandiyohi, MN

Unlike the farms I passed in previous weeks further east, the more industrial aspects of modern agriculture were evident on today's ride. The quaint wooden barns and small enclosed pastures of southwestern Wisconsin gave way to towering grain elevators adjacent railroad lines and large steel dairy and poultry barns housing thousands of animals. This slice of rural America felt far more impersonal than places further east.

The preeminence of agribusiness in this area of Minnesota explains a curious aspect of Willmar - the large Somali community that lives in the town. Refugees of a country that has had no functional central government since 1991, many Somalis (like other immigrants) have relocated to places like Willmar to work in the local meatpacking industry. Somalis now make up nearly 10 percent of the town population and a visit to the town center illustrated their impact with small shops like a grocery store selling goat meat and phone cards - a testament to the changing face of rural America.

If you're driving (or cycling) on US-12 and looking for a place to eat in this neck of the woods, I definitely recommend a stop at Cricket Meadow Tea in Litchfield, MN - excellent food and drink with an antique store next door.

STAGE SUMMARY:

Starting Point - Eden Prairie, MN

Ending Point - Willmar, MN
Distance - 93.7 miles
Cumulative Distance - 1507.2 miles
Vertical Elevation - 2732 feet

Counties - Hennepin, Carver, Wright, Meeker, Kandiyohi, MN

Wind - strong tailwind

Day 17: Up the Great River Road

We made it to Minnesota!

Broken sunlight, a slight tailwind, and the prospect of getting home propelled us during a 93 mile journey along the Mississippi River into the Twin Cities area. Fourteen hundred miles from my apartment in New York to my parent's house in Eden Prairie, MN marks the unofficial halfway point of my trip (even though in mileage, I am only at the 45% mark). Andrew's journey ends here, and I will take the next several days off before starting west again at the end of the week.

Despite riding along the banks of the Mississippi River, our ride today was surprisingly hilly as the Great River Road occasionally veered away from the river forcing us into extended climbs out of the river valley. Nevertheless, the ride offered many great views of the Mississippi and the topography of the region - particularly the monadnocks of the Driftless Area along the river. We passed many cyclists today - some on long-distance tours and others just out for a long weekend ride.

Sunset over the Mississippi River in Pepin, WI

Today's ride also featured the first flat tire of my journey so far, but it struck Andrew's bike instead of mine. We were about 10 miles out of Prescott pulled over to the side of the road, and managed to locate a small tear in the tire. I folded up a dollar bill to stick inside the tire - a makeshift boot - replaced the tube, and we were on our way without further incident. For my bike, my Bontrager hard case tires have not let me down yet (knock on wood).

Harbor View Cafe in Pepin, WI

The last couple days from La Crosse to Minneapolis along the river have offered many great culinary experiences. The Harbor View Cafe in Pepin is a must for anyone traveling on the Great River Road, the Brickyard Pub and Eatery is a good stop for a bite for anyone on a bike ride out of the Twin Cities, and La Crosse offers several great food options. Additionally, the river road features many vineyards along the road and just inside the Driftless Area - perhaps a nice organizing principle for 3-4 day bike tour of the region.

A special thanks to Tom Pryor and Catherine Courcy - our good friends who we met in Minneapolis and who rode with us through uptown Minneapolis on the way to the western suburbs.

STAGE SUMMARY:

Starting Point - Pepin, WI

Ending Point - Eden Prairie, MN
Distance - 93.0 miles
Cumulative Distance - 1413.5 miles
Vertical Elevation - 4589 feet

Counties - Pepin, Pierce, WI; Washington, Dakota, Ramsey, Hennepin, MN

Wind - variable tailwind

Day 16: Reflections from a Touring Novice

A guest post from Andrew Gisselquist:

As a novice bicyclist on my first multi-day ride I didn’t know what to expect. However, I quickly found out that one or two days riding is not enough to comprehend biking across America. Even my four days through western Wisconsin and into Minneapolis, MN are probably not enough, but it gave me some perspective.

Most surprising, the hard part of a bike tour does not seem to be the physical effort on any given day, notwithstanding 90 degree 100-mile rides through Appalachia. I was rarely breathing hard, rarely feeling my muscles work. Besides, there’s nothing to do except bike, eat, and sleep. So slow down an mph or two and take an extra hour to do the bike part, there’ll still be plenty of time for eating and sleeping.

No, the hard part for anyone embarking on a trip across America is that, perhaps without realizing it, you’ve traded the daily grind you get paid to go through for one of your own creation. There’s a definite pattern to the days. Early morning restlessness broken by a 7am alarm. Bike shorts on. Breakfast with small-town America. The loud clip-clop of bicycle cleats wherever you walk. Hit the bike seat. Go 20 miles. Pace set as much by headwinds as hills. Mooooo at the livestock along country roads. Hit a Kwik Trip at 10:30 for a restroom and Gatorade. Another 20 miles to lunch. The restaurant(s) will be on Main Street; not hard to find in a town of 600. Hopefully there's something green or otherwise vegetable colored with the meal, but food quality matters less when you're burning an extra couple thousand calories a day. Another couple 20 mile pieces and another day's checked off. Knees a little worse for the wear. A shower, dinner and an early night sets up the next day.

It's a couple months vacation that becomes a sort of job.

Luckily, there are moments amidst the day-to-day. And there were enough great moments to make my four days more than worthwhile. Endless farmland views from ridgelines. Attacking rolling hills just right to maintain speed. Finding a newborn kitten in the middle of the road. Getting insights on the route ahead from a cyclist headed the other way. Saying hi to passing Amish kids. Barreling down a mile-long hill in the rain. Conversations with locals, sharing their own story with a stranger on a strange trip.

Anyone thinking about a long bicycle trip must love such moments. It was great to see that Neil does, and to experience some of the road for myself.

STAGE SUMMARY:

Starting Point - La Crosse, WI

Ending Point - Pepin, WI
Distance - 76.8 miles
Cumulative Distance - 1320.5 miles
Vertical Elevation - 1761 feet

Counties - La Crosse, Trempealeau, Buffalo, Pepin, WI

Wind - light headwind

Day 15: Driftless Area

Unseasonably cool weather and a steady afternoon rain did not unduly hamper our ride from Richland Center to La Crosse, WI bringing us to the banks of the Mississippi River. Two more days before I come to the unofficial halfway mark of my trip in Minneapolis, MN.

Our route through southwest Wisconsin today took us through the Driftless Area - a region of land free from glaciation during the last Ice Age. Drift, which refers to the sediment and gravel left behind by retreating glaciers, filled in the topography of regions affected by glaciation. In the Driftless Area, this process did not occur leaving a landscape that looks more like Appalachia than the rest of the Midwest.

Like my rides through Pennsylvania, cycling through this region required noticeably more climbing than other rides in the last week. An initial climb out of Richland Center on county roads brought us up to ridge line with rolling hills through farmlands and pastures.

Rolling hills in the Driftless Area

On these wonderfully quiet roads, we came across a cat and a kitten sitting in the middle of the road. The mother fled as we approached, but the kitten remained planted in the middle of the road. As I got off my bike to remove the kitten from the middle of the road, it finally decided that it might not be that safe and scurried off into the tall grass.  During another climb later in the morning, a corgi monitored our slow ascent and skittered off despite my hopes that it might stay close enough to get a good picture (corgis are awesome). The lunch stop was the aptly named Driftless Cafe in Viroqua, WI - an excellent stop for anyone in the area hoping to sample the local produce.

Hills shrouded in fog and mist

In the afternoon, we passed through Wisconsin Amish country complete with horse-drawn carriages and children walking home barefoot in hats and bonnets. A dense fog shrouded the hills in mist but deepened the sense of traveling through a foreign and exotic land. The territory should grow more familiar in the coming days as I cycle back home.

Horse grazing near an Amish carriage

STAGE SUMMARY:

Starting Point - Richland Center, WI

Ending Point - La Crosse, WI
Distance - 72.3 miles
Cumulative Distance - 1243.7 miles
Vertical Elevation - 4220 feet

Counties - Richland, Vernon, La Crosse, WI

Wind - variable crosswind

Day 14: Frank Lloyd Wright Highway

A shorter and rainy ride today took Andrew (his first day touring) and myself from Madison, WI west northwest to Richland Center, WI through rolling farmlands along the Wisconsin River. While the steady rain put a bit of a damper on the ride, the tailwind kept us moving along at a quick clip. Along a 15 mile straight section of US-14, we were cruising at better than 22 mph. Traffic on US-14 was on the heavier side but segments on county roads provided great riding conditions.

As our hosts informed us last night, this region of Wisconsin is known as the home of the architect Frank Lloyd Wright. The segment of US-14 we rode on today was called the Frank Lloyd Wright Highway and leads towards Taliesin - the summer home of the architect. He used features of the surrounding landscape and local materials as he experimented with new ideas.

The region also features a local tourist trap that I recall visiting in my childhood - House on the Rock. Thought to be one of the biggest tourist draws in Wisconsin, the mansion features endless rooms of collectors items - more homage to Hoarders than carefully tended museum. A vague sense of dread clouds the memory of my visit there. Needless to say, it was not a stop on our journey today.

Just outside Taliesin and House of the Rock is the small town of Spring Green, WI where we stopped for lunch. On the quaint main street, we dropped into the Freddy Valentine's Public House. The restaurant, only a couple years old, is inside a refurbished bank building complete with a safe separating dining rooms and the imposing facade of old style bank buildings. Skip House on the Rocks and head here instead.

STAGE SUMMARY:

Starting Point - Madison, WI

Ending Point - Richland Center, WI
Distance - 62.0 miles
Cumulative Distance - 1171.4 miles
Vertical Elevation - 1419 feet

Counties - Dane, Iowa, Sauk, Richland, WI

Wind - moderate tailwind

Day 13: Lucky Thirteen

My thirteenth day on the road met with some of the best riding conditions so far. A moderate tailwind off Lake Michigan and temperatures in the mid 60s made quick work of the 90 miles from Milwaukee into Madison. This evening, I met up with my friend Andrew Gisselquist and his family. Andrew will join me for the next four days of riding back to our childhood stomping grounds in Minnesota.

Each day on the road brings fascinating stories from the people I meet on the way. Today, even before leaving the hotel this morning, I became acquainted with two Canadians staying in Milwaukee for business. As we got to talking, this Canadian couple of Japanese descent, in their late 70s, told me the story of Japanese internment in Canada.

Their ancestors had arrived in Canada in the 1900s, but shortly after the attack on Pearl Harbor, they were taken from their homes in Vancouver and sent to internment camps in much the same way as Japanese Americans. However, internment in Canada continued even after the end of the war in 1945. Their parents' property was confiscated and sold to finance the costs of internment, and, after their release in 1946, they were pressed to leave the country. Some of their compatriots returned to Japan - a country as foreign to any native born American or Canadian. Once the US offered reparations to internment survivors in the 1980s, the Canadian government quickly followed suit. I did not expect to spend an hour this morning chatting at the hotel breakfast, but it's not everyday that you meet with people who experienced history as vividly as this couple.

Miller Park in the background

My route out of Milwaukee took me across the west side of the city, past the Miller's Milwaukee Brewery and it's namesake baseball stadium, Miller Park. The stadium looked impressive from afar - the first time I have seen a stadium with a retractable roof. Several paved rails trails facilitated the ride through the outskirts of Milwaukee to Waukesha where I grabbed a coffee at the excellent Steaming Cup. West of Waukesha, the rail trails turned to gravel - a trail runs all the way to Madison, but I decided to hop on the highways to take full advantage of the tailwind.

Glacial Drumlin Trail on the road to Madison

I grabbed a quick lunch in Jefferson, WI at the Bonton Bakery where the kind folks insisted on taking a picture of me with my bike - their shop a stop along a transcontinental bicycle route.

A special thanks to Randy and Yvonne Eide for hosting Andrew, his parents, and I for our stay over in Madison.

STAGE SUMMARY:

Starting Point - Milwaukee, WI

Ending Point - Madison, WI
Distance - 90.0 miles
Cumulative Distance - 1109.4 miles
Vertical Elevation - 2982 feet

Counties - Milwaukee, Waukesha, Jefferson, Dane, WI

Wind - moderate tailwind

Day 12: The New Urbanization

Riding from downtown Chicago to Milwaukee featured a little bit of everything: urban cycling dealing with both cars and pedestrians, cycling gravel bike paths through the suburbs, rolling through country roads alongside farms and pastures, and traversing busy multilane highways. At the end of today's ride, I had crossed another state line, surpassed the 1000 mile mark, and negotiated my last ride into a major city until I reach Portland, OR next month.

A rest day spent in Chicago gave me the opportunity to visit one of the last great urban baseball stadiums - Wrigley Field. Located north of city center, Wrigley reminded me of White Hart Lane in London (home venue for Tottenham Hotspur) - nestled in an urban area replete with row houses, pubs and shops within walking distance of the subway line. The weather was uncomfortably chilly for June - a mere 50 degrees - but this historic stadium was well worth the visit.

Chilly day at Wrigley Field

In contrast to the other Rust Belt towns I visited in the past weeks, Chicago and Milwaukee showcase the revitalization taking root in America's core cities. In Chicago, the apartment where I stayed was  converted space from a former food processing facility. The bar where we went to watch the Chicago Blackhawks game on Sunday night was located just a few blocks from the infamous Cabrini-Green housing projects that have now been demolished.

Downtown Milwaukee presented a more surprising picture. Expecting to witness a cityscape like Detroit, I instead found something closer to Brooklyn. Boutique coffee shops, condos built amidst vacant lots and abandoned factories, and old art deco buildings renovated into restaurants. The hotel where I am staying - the Ambassador Hotel - was built in 1928, and fell into disrepair by the late 80s and 90s. However, with a recent renovation, it's old luster has been fully restored.

Coffee shop and burger bar in Milwaukee

The new urban center in cities like Chicago and Milwaukee is overwhelmingly young, wealthy, and often predominantly white. The process of gentrification seems to displace and disperse the poor rather than creating truly mixed income communities, though that is just an impression on my part. A recent New York Times magazine article alludes to these tensions in Chicago. While revitalization may not be an unqualified success, downtown Chicago and Milwaukee are increasingly attractive destinations for younger generations to live and work.

STAGE SUMMARY:

Starting Point - Chicago, IL

Ending Point - Milwaukee, WI
Distance - 93.7 miles
Cumulative Distance - 1019.4 miles
Vertical Elevation - 1815 feet

Counties - Cook, Lake, IL; Kenosha, Racine, Milwaukee, WI

Wind - moderate cross/tailwind

Day 11: Shores of Lake Michigan

Eleven days from one great American city to another - today's ride brought me through Indiana, into Illinois and delivered me to the center of Chicago. By the time I started this morning, thunderstorms had moved east overnight providing mostly dry and comfortable conditions for the ride.

Situated on the shores of Lake Michigan, the only way for westward travelers to approach Chicago is to go around Lake Michigan and approach the city from the south. For a cyclist, this poses challenges in terms of density and limits the feasible approach routes. Fortunately, a system of dedicated bike trails and bike paths simplified matters.

Three dedicated bike paths allowed me to navigate pass the busy freeways and congested city roads leading into Chicago. The Oak Savannah Trail from Hobart, IN to Griffith, IN - densely lined with trees - provided a welcome respite from the harassing crosswinds in the open Indiana farm fields. A second rail trail - Erie Lackawanna Trail - bypassed the busy boulevards in the industrial Indiana communities adjacent to Chicago. Finally, the Burnham Greenway took me through the working class neighborhoods south of Chicago up to Lake Michigan.

View of Lake Michigan with Chicago in background

Lake Michigan will be the only one of the Great Lakes I will visit on my cross-country ride. The lakefront trail runs from South Chicago into downtown Chicago and provides great views of the impressive Chicago skyline. The whole journey from outskirts to downtown Chicago measured over 50 miles - more the half the mileage covered today and a testament to the dimensions of the Windy City.

Chicago skyline with marina in the foreground

Tomorrow provides another rest day (hence no blogging) as I prepare to cross the 1000 mile mark on Monday. A special thanks to my great hosts for the weekend - a high school buddy Ryan Ford and his girlfriend Jenna Berens. 

STAGE SUMMARY:

Starting Point - Plymouth, IN

Ending Point - Chicago, IL
Distance - 97.5 miles
Cumulative Distance - 925.7 miles
Vertical Elevation - 1042 feet

Counties - Marshall, Starke, LaPorte, Porter, Lake, IN; Cook, IL

Wind - moderate crosswind