Wednesday, July 10, 2013

Day 39: The Gorge

On this penultimate day of my cross-country journey, Reed and I traversed the Columbia Gorge and cycled into Bike City, USA - Portland. Despite some fierce gust in the Gorge and some busy stretches on the interstate, much of the riding today was spectacular. Bike trails through temperate rain forests, climbs overlooking the Columbia River Valley, and riding past 500 foot waterfalls along the Historic Columbia River Highway were just some of the highlights.

Bridge of the Gods over the Columbia River

Cool winds blowing from the Pacific make the Gorge a particular windy location. The stiff west winds made hard going on the I-84 for the first 12 miles out of Hood River. A tourist town with plenty for outdoor enthusiasts, the windy conditions make Hood River known for its water sports including windsurfing and kitesurfing. Any evidence of the arid desert environment of the previous days had vanished as we cycled along forests and mossy cliff faces either side of the Columbia River.

Multnomah Falls along the Historic Columbia River Highway

At Cascade Locks near the Bonneville Dam, we stopped to admire the Bridge of the Gods - one of the more recently constructed crossings of the Columbia River. Right along the side of the road, we found blackberry bushes. Reed collected a handful of sufficiently ripe blackberries for a mid-morning snack. Salmon berries and raspberries were also spotted along the bike trails further down the road.

Blackberry bush near Cascade Locks
Perhaps the most stunning feature of the Columbia Gorge is how quickly the landscape changes from arid deserts to lush temperate rainforest. From east of the Dalles to just west of Hood River is not more than 35 miles, but in that distance, the landscape makes a 180 degree shift. Bike trails along I-84 pass through a rainforest filled with giant evergreens, mossy rocks, ferns, and waterfalls streaming from the Cascades. This amazing landscape marks a great way to end a cross-country trip. If and when they complete bike trails around the interstate sections, this route would be second to none that I have encountered.

Temperate rainforest in eastern Oregon

I finished up my five day ride with Reed with an afternoon enjoying the culinary experiences of Portland. Reed, Courtney and I sampled the overwhelming food truck scene here in Portland for lunch, grabbed some cocktails at the Whiskey Soda Lounge in southeast Portland, and enjoyed a fine dining experience of local flavors for dinner at Castagna Restaurant. I cannot thank them enough for joining me here in the northwest. Reed has been an excellent cycling companion for five days from Lewiston to Portland, and Courtney drove on her own from Wyoming to Oregon taking care of their dog Chloe on that long journey. Tomorrow is one last leg alone to the Pacific.

Reed Walker, Courtney Olsen Walker, and myself at Castagna

STAGE SUMMARY (click for map):
Starting Point - Hood River, OR
Ending Point - Portland, OR
Distance - 68.8 miles
Cumulative Distance - 3194.8 miles
Vertical Elevation - 3824 feet
Counties - Hood River, Multnomah, OR
Wind - moderate headwind

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