Portlandia

After reaching the Pacific coast on Thursday in Astoria, I returned by bus to Portland on Friday to take in more of the sights of the city over the weekend. The Rose City lived up to its reputation as the land of bicycles, microbreweries, coffeehouses, and facial hair. In Portland, local stores remain dominant (save for the high number of Starbucks) with people buying their books at Powell's, not Amazon. With one of the highest concentration of restaurants per capita before even counting all the food trucks, Portland offers a compelling food scene as well.

The unofficial slogan of Portland

As luck would have it, I find myself in Portland at basically the best time of the year. With clear skies, high temperatures in 70s, and no humidity or rain, Portland felt like coastal California. I took advantage of this good weather to roam the Japanese gardens in Washington Park yesterday morning and explore North Portland today including a tour at the Widmer Brothers Brewery, home of America's first hefeweizen.

Sculpture in the Japanese garden in Washington Park

One of the ways Portland keeps itself weird is its fanatical support for the Portland Timbers - a soccer team that has recently joined the MLS. I managed to secure a ticket in the Timbers Army section of the sold out Jeld-Wen Arena to watch them take on the LA Galaxy. With a purple shirt and no Timber gear, I stuck out like a sore thumb in the Timbers fan section prompting me to run out and buy a Timber cap. Nevertheless, when I returned, the gig was up and the fans around me asked me if it was my first game and whether I knew anything about soccer. I gave them my story, and sensing the opportunity to recruit a new fan, these season fans generously gave me a Timbers scarf and a printout of the fan chants.

To the uninitiated, watching a soccer game in person is unlike watching any other professional sport in the US. If you are sitting in the fan section - the Timbers Army in my case - expect to stand the entire match and chant constantly with captains who spend the entire match facing the crowd and leading the chants and songs. A goal by the Timbers was celebrated by Timber Jim sawing off a section of pine with a chainsaw and lifting it like a scalp for the crowd. Needless to say, the atmosphere is like no other sporting event and has few equals, even in European club football. A second half stoppage time winner from a corner made the atmosphere that much more electric. I think I may have my MLS team.

Day 40: "O! the Joy"

Forty days and just shy of 3300 miles, my ride across America comes to an end at a haunting shipwreck on the Pacific coast. The anticipation of arriving at my final destination woke me up early this morning, and it turned out I needed every minute to make the trek from Portland to Astoria, OR and the coastline. Describing the moment as bittersweet might seem a bit trite, but the word seems appropriate. I am certainly happy to have traversed this distance without incident and eager to get back, but I will miss life out on the open road.

Western terminus at Fort Stevens, OR on the Pacific Ocean

Nature conspired today to make the final day of riding a bit more difficult than usual. A cool wind out of the northwest off the ocean grew steadily stronger as I zeroed in on the coast pushing me back east. The Columbia River Highway from Portland to Astoria is hardly a pleasant cycling route with several steep climbs and a fairly narrow shoulder amidst heavy traffic. Logging and allied industries ensure a steady stream of large truck traffic. Conditions were more favorable in terms of temperature - some brief morning cloud cover gave way to steady sunshine with the ocean breeze keeping temperatures no higher than the mid 60s.

Wreck of the Peter Iredale on the Oregon Coast

As the miles added up, the increasing wind and the widening river were the only clues that I was approaching the coast. Forests and hills kept the horizon close with a fresh scent of cedar from the procession of logging trucks. However, shortly after entering Astoria, the first scent of saltwater materialized, with a view of the broad estuary following shortly thereafter. Two hundred years earlier, Captain William Clark wrote in his journal, "Ocian in view! O! the joy," but still needed an additional three weeks to make it past the estuary to the ocean proper.

At the Pacific in front of the Iredale wreck

My first glimpse of the Pacific only came as I made my final turn into Fort Stevens Park. I carried my bike over the sand dunes as the Pacific looked brilliant in the afternoon sunshine. Built on the sight of an old military installation, the park seems to be a good place to experience the Oregon coast - the craggy outcroppings near the beach and the evergreen rainforest just inland. Wading in the cold water, I poured a small vial of Atlantic Ocean water that I had carried cross-country from Brighton Beach.

Recreation of Fort Clatsop, winter encampment of the Lewis and Clark expedition

With time running out to drop off my bike in Astoria for shipping and despite not stopping for lunch, I raced over to Fort Clatsop just five miles away from the coast. Here stands the site of Lewis and Clark's encampment where the Corps of Discovery spent the winter of 1805 where they hoped in vain to spot a clipper ship to avoid returning by land. I managed to survey the memorial and get back to Astoria to drop off my bike and some gear for shipping back to New York.

Sunset over the Pacific with Astoria-Megler Bridge in the background

So ends my transcontinental bike ride. In the coming days, I will add some additional posts with thoughts and advice for those contemplating their own trip. 

For now, some thanks are in order: I could not have done this without the support of those who cycled with me and visited me out on the road, often at great personal expense. I also want to offer a special thanks to my family who were not entirely comfortable with this endeavor but nonetheless supported me throughout the way.

STAGE SUMMARY:

Starting Point - Portland, OR

Ending Point - Fort Stevens, OR

Distance - 105.1 miles

Cumulative Distance - 3299.9 miles

Vertical Elevation - 4937 feet

Counties - Multnomah, Columbia, Clatsop, OR

Wind - moderate headwind

Day 39: The Gorge

On this penultimate day of my cross-country journey, Reed and I traversed the Columbia Gorge and cycled into Bike City, USA - Portland. Despite some fierce gust in the Gorge and some busy stretches on the interstate, much of the riding today was spectacular. Bike trails through temperate rain forests, climbs overlooking the Columbia River Valley, and riding past 500 foot waterfalls along the Historic Columbia River Highway were just some of the highlights.

Bridge of the Gods over the Columbia River

Cool winds blowing from the Pacific make the Gorge a particular windy location. The stiff west winds made hard going on the I-84 for the first 12 miles out of Hood River. A tourist town with plenty for outdoor enthusiasts, the windy conditions make Hood River known for its water sports including windsurfing and kitesurfing. Any evidence of the arid desert environment of the previous days had vanished as we cycled along forests and mossy cliff faces either side of the Columbia River.

Multnomah Falls along the Historic Columbia River Highway

At Cascade Locks near the Bonneville Dam, we stopped to admire the Bridge of the Gods - one of the more recently constructed crossings of the Columbia River. Right along the side of the road, we found blackberry bushes. Reed collected a handful of sufficiently ripe blackberries for a mid-morning snack. Salmon berries and raspberries were also spotted along the bike trails further down the road.

Blackberry bush near Cascade Locks

Perhaps the most stunning feature of the Columbia Gorge is how quickly the landscape changes from arid deserts to lush temperate rainforest. From east of the Dalles to just west of Hood River is not more than 35 miles, but in that distance, the landscape makes a 180 degree shift. Bike trails along I-84 pass through a rainforest filled with giant evergreens, mossy rocks, ferns, and waterfalls streaming from the Cascades. This amazing landscape marks a great way to end a cross-country trip. If and when they complete bike trails around the interstate sections, this route would be second to none that I have encountered.

Temperate rainforest in eastern Oregon

I finished up my five day ride with Reed with an afternoon enjoying the culinary experiences of Portland. Reed, Courtney and I sampled the overwhelming food truck scene here in Portland for lunch, grabbed some cocktails at the Whiskey Soda Lounge in southeast Portland, and enjoyed a fine dining experience of local flavors for dinner at Castagna Restaurant. I cannot thank them enough for joining me here in the northwest. Reed has been an excellent cycling companion for five days from Lewiston to Portland, and Courtney drove on her own from Wyoming to Oregon taking care of their dog Chloe on that long journey. Tomorrow is one last leg alone to the Pacific.

Reed Walker, Courtney Olsen Walker, and myself at Castagna

STAGE SUMMARY (click for map):

Starting Point - Hood River, OR

Ending Point - Portland, OR

Distance - 68.8 miles

Cumulative Distance - 3194.8 miles

Vertical Elevation - 3824 feet

Counties - Hood River, Multnomah, OR

Wind - moderate headwind

Day 38: Reclamation

It was a short and sweet ride today from Biggs Junction, OR to Hood River, OR marking our entrance into the Columbia River Gorge. Given the climbs and the wind conditions, we decided that a one day ride all the way to Portland would be too much. Moreover, this part of the valley is a region to savor.

From Biggs Junction, the landscape very much resembles the dry desertscapes of eastern Oregon with little but sagebrush and dusty cliff faces to admire. However, around the Dalles, the landscape begins to change completely with dryland giving way to pine forests and an otherwise greener environment. Outside the Dalles, we pick up the Historic Columbia River Highway and climbed to Rowena Crest overlooking the Gorge. This route, lightly traveled by cars and closed to motor vehicles in some sections, is a favorite for cyclists from the Portland area.

Overlooking the Columbia River from Rowena Crest

Despite its arid environment, the land around the Columbia River Valley remains tremendously productive agricultural land owing to the damming of the river. This high volume river is damned along its entire reach to the Canadian border providing water for high values crops from apples and cherries to the vineyards around Walla Walla. The diversity of the agriculture in this region sets it apart from the Dakotas or other parts of the Midwest.

Reed Walker overlooking John Day Dam

The aggressive reclamation projects in this region and the West overall have shaped this region economically and continue to carry economic and environmental consequences. Cheap hydroelectric power from the dams brought the Manhattan Project to Hanford where nuclear waste slowly seeps towards the Columbia, helped Alcoa become one of the world's largest aluminum producers, and brought airplane manufacturers like Boeing to the region. Reclamation also decimated the salmon runs that sustained the native population and characterized the river that Lewis and Clark traveled down in 1805. Today, salmon ladders and fish hatcheries try to revive these once plentiful salmon runs.

Bonneville Dam with transmission lines in the distance

Despite its changed character, the Columbia Valley remains a stunning sight to witness. Reed's wife, Courtney, drove today from Wyoming and met us in Hood River, OR. We took an afternoon drive 20 miles south towards Mount Hood and hiked up to a cliff face in the forest in the area. Avid climbers, Reed and Courtney scaled up some of these climbs; I even attempted the briefest of ascents before losing my grip and deciding to preserve my strength for the final couple days of my ride of the Pacific coast.

The Dalles Dam with salmon ladder in the foreground and Mount Hood in the background

STAGE SUMMARY:

Starting Point - Biggs Junction, OR

Ending Point - Hood River, OR

Distance - 45.4 miles

Cumulative Distance - 3126.0 miles

Vertical Elevation - 2934 feet

Counties - Sherman, Wasco, Hood River, OR

Wind - light headwind

Day 37: In the Rain Shadow

We started and ended in Oregon but most of the day was spent on the Washington side of the Columbia River. The climate here is dry and hot with a vexing wind from the west blowing along the valley. It made today's ride a bit of a slog, complicated by the absence of stops along the way. We took a couple of breaks just stopping along the side of the road sitting on guardrails or finding shade under a cliff face.

Drylands of Eastern Washington

When our heads weren't down pedaling furiously into the wind, we got a chance to admire the imposing valley cut by the Columbia River. Though the highway runs parallel to the river, the ride still features numerous climbs and descents along the sloped riverbank. Wineries, farms, and orchards dominated the area near Umatilla, OR while windmills dotted the cliffs on each side of the river closer to Biggs Junction.

Checking out the road ahead next to the Columbia River

This region's arid climate is attributable to the rain shadow cast by the Cascades Mountains. Cool wet winds from the Pacific condense and precipitate before arriving further inland. As we made our way west, Mount Hood emerged in the distance. As one of the highest peaks in the Cascades, it's snow-covered slopes offered a jarring contrast as we baked in the summer sun. It seems as if all the moisture from the Pacific finds itself stuck there. Sagebrush, tumbleweed, and the occasional stand of Ponderosa pines were all that could survive here.

Reed cycling up a climb with Mount Hood in the distance

Umatilla and Biggs Junction have little to offer of note. The former appears to be an farm town with a large Mexican-American community that works the nearby fields in the Palouse while the latter seems to be a truck stop on the interstate into Portland. The mini mart in Roosevelt - halfway between Umatilla and Biggs Junction - provides an invaluable rest stop for thirsty and hungry cyclists. We came across several today heading in both directions.

STAGE SUMMARY:

Starting Point - Umatilla, OR

Ending Point - Biggs Junction, OR

Distance - 85.5 miles

Cumulative Distance - 3080.6 miles

Vertical Elevation - 4056 feet

Counties - Umatilla, OR; Benton, Klickitat, WA; Sherman, OR

Wind - moderate headwind

Day 36: Occupational Hazards

Oregon and the Columbia River! A short but hot ride today brought us further into the arid stretches of eastern Washington and Oregon. A cool wind off the river kept the heat manageable in the morning, but, by the afternoon, even the wind blew hot air. We stopped by a small beach along the river to jump in and cool off.

Checking the integrity of the Oregon Welcome sign

As I near the end of my trip, this is probably as good a time as any to describe the physical effects of a cross-country journey. If you are a fan of farmer's tans, then a cross country bike ride is for you. Whether you are riding in bright sunshine or cloudy skies, a fierce tan is to be expected and it will take the shape of whatever cycling gear you are wearing. In particular, for someone like me who shaves their head, be prepared for a tan in the shape of your helmet, complete with the strap lines and stripes where the sun gets through the helmet's air vents.

Ridiculous tan line on my arm

Beyond unfortunate tan lines, the only other particular physical ailment has been the isolated bout of dehydration. In hot and humid days on the road, you lose a lot of water and electrolytes in a fairly short period of time. During the first two days of the trip in humid 90 degree weather outside New York, I started developing muscle cramps by the early afternoon. I have found that electrolyte tablets taken in the morning generally work well along with Gatorade throughout the day. A combination of acclimation and generally drier weather has staved off any additional bouts of cramping. Nevertheless, at the end of hot days, I find my face and jersey caked with salt (I'll spare you the pictures).

Reed Walker surveying the Columbia River

Beyond managing elements - sun and rain, heat and cold - I have not suffered much in the way of other ailments. I have managed to avoid sickness or food poisoning, though some cyclists I have come across have not been so fortunate. Soreness in the quads is largely confined to the hardest climbing days or days cycling into a headwind. Initially, you will experience soreness and tightness in your arms and back from sitting upright on a bike for 5-7 hours a day but the body seems to adapt within a week or so.

STAGE SUMMARY:

Starting Point - Walla Walla, WA

Ending Point - Umatilla, OR

Distance - 56.2 miles

Cumulative Distance - 2995.1 miles

Vertical Elevation - 1634 feet

Counties - Walla Walla, WA; Umatilla, OR

Wind - variable headwind

Day 35: The Palouse

Into Washington and the homestretch. No more rest days as I make the final push to the Pacific Ocean. My friend, Reed Walker, flew out to Lewiston, ID yesterday and joined me on the road. He will ride with me to Portland as we make our way through the arid regions of eastern Washington to the Columbia River and through the Columbia Gorge into the city.

Beginning at the confluence of the Snake and Clearwater Rivers, we entered a dry and hilly region of eastern Washington called the Palouse. Composed of silt dunes formed during the last ice age, the Palouse is now productive farmland home to vast fields of wheat, barley and mustard. Our ride today featured several climbs including a somewhat severe 10 mile, 2000 foot climb out of the L-C Valley towards Pomeroy, WA. In the bright summer sunshine, the brown wheat fields appear soft and willowy stretching on rolling hills in all directions. We spotted deer wading through the fields, sheep and cattle grazing upon immense slopes, and even a snake sitting on the roadway. Giant windmills towered over the hills slowly turning in the light breeze.

Windmills over the Palouse

Our route also brought us to several interesting small towns here in southeastern Washington. The small farming town of Dayton - one of the older communities in Washington formed along the Oregon Trail - offered several options for brunch including the excellent Weinhard Cafe. Leaving aside the wisdom of cycling after drinking a beer, we stopped by a microbrewery in Waitsburg - the Laht Neppur. Arriving in Walla Walla, we discovered a town with more wine tasting places than cross streets. Apparently, the region, with its dry climate, is known for its vineyards. The Charles Smith Tasting Room is one of innumerable local wine tasting spots. For those teetotalers, the main street offers plenty of inviting cafes, restaurants, and antique shops.

A climb in the Palouse

STAGE SUMMARY:

Starting Point - Lewiston, ID

Ending Point - Walla Walla, WA

Distance - 96.5 miles

Cumulative Distance - 2938.9 miles

Vertical Elevation - 5808 feet

Counties - Nez Perce, ID; Asotin, Garfield, Columbia, Walla Walla, WA

Wind - variable crosswind